» Волны, образованные ураганом
Среди серферов есть настоящие охотники за штормом. Эти любители бигвейв-серфинга путешествуют по миру в поисках крупнейших волн. Однако высокие волны могут образовываться не только благодаря океанским свеллам. Существует также такое явление, как волна, генерируемая ураганом.
Наука говорит нам о том, что ураган – это область низкого давления, которая возникает над теплой поверхностью океана и сопровождается сильными грозами, выпадением ливневых осадков, а также ветром штормовой силы. Ураганы также называют тропическими циклонами, потому что формируются они в основном в тропиках. Жители Азии чаще зовут их тайфунами.
Высокая скорость ветра, свойственная любому урагану, может производить экстремальные волны. Когда вода поднимается от центра урагана и попадает под влияние ветров, течений и приливов, образуется штормовой нагон воды.
Другими словами, мы наблюдаем резкое увеличение уровня воды у побережья (в десятки метров), в результате чего могут возникать серьезные разрушения в прибрежных районах.
«Волны, генерируемые ураганом, отличаются от волн, порожденных нормальными ветровыми условиями, сразу несколькими особенностями. Скорости ветра при урагане не являются постоянными, поэтому меняются и волновые характеристики», — объясняет Frederic Raichlen, автор книги «Waves».
«Ветры внутри урагана движутся по спиральной траектории и сходятся вокруг центральной области низкого атмосферного давления. Из-за силы Кориолиса, ветры отклоняются от направления барического градиента, закручиваясь против часовой стрелки в Северном полушарии и по часовой стрелке в Южном полушарии. Ураганные ветры генерируют волны, которые направлены под различными углами к пути перемещения шторма».
«Из-за штормового нагона, увеличивающего уровень воды возле берега, волны, генерируемые ветром, могут теперь распространяться на более глубокие воды, и очень крупные волны могут возникать гораздо ближе к берегу».
Существует шкала ураганов Саффира-Симпсона для измерения потенциального ущерба от ураганов, разработанная в начале 1970-х годов. Она основана на скорости ветра и включает в себя оценку штормовых волн в 5 категориях.
Синоптики обладают научными методами прогнозирования волн, образуемых ураганами на глубокой воде. Следующее руководство основано на наблюдениях, и оно не может считаться абсолютно точным.
|
Категория (по шкале Саффира-Симпсона) |
Скорость
ветра (км/ч) |
Скорость ветра (миль/ч) |
Высота волны (м) |
Период волны (сек) |
| 1 | 119-153 | 74-95 | 4-8 | 7-11 |
| 2 | 154-177 | 96-110 | 6-10 | 9-12 |
| 3 | 178-209 | 111-130 | 10-14 | 12-15 |
| 4 | 210-249 | 131-155 | 10-14 | 12-15 |
| 5 | >249 | >155 | 12-17 | 13-17 |
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