» Виды волн
Как известно, волны могут быть совершенно разными: отличаться по форме, высоте, размеру и прочему. Этот материал поможет разобраться, что особенного в разный видах волн. Стоит отметить, что главное в серфинге – это волна, но при этом каждая из волн неповторима. Это и составляет одну из главных сложностей серфинга.
Итак, волны бывают:
Вeach break (бич-брейки) — это волны, разбивающиеся прямо о песок берега. Как правило, все новоявленные серферы начинают именно с этих волн. Например, спот Kuta Beach на острове Бали является бич-брейком. Или волна на юге Франции Hossegor. Одна из занимательных особенностей последней волны – она формирует прекрасные трубы, на которых можно прокатиться, проехав 7 метров.
Point break (пойнт-брейки). Благодаря именно такому типу волн получил свое название фильм «На гребне волны» («Point Break»). Часто волны этого типа создают просто невероятные виды, так как их особенность заключена в том, что на подходе к суше они разбиваются о вершину скалы, находящуюся под водой. Прекрасный пример пойнт-брейка — Bells Beach в Австралии.
Reef break (риф-брейк) — этот тип волны образуется в 2-ух случаях: когда волны разбиваются или о каменное дно, или о коралловый риф. В большинстве серф-видео используются съемки именно на волнах этого типа, так как они считаются самыми предсказуемыми и стабильными. Опытный серфер всегда может довольно точно предположить, где начнет закрываться волна. И конечно, эти волны дают незабываемые впечатления о катании на них. Хороший пример риф-брейка — волна Пайплайн (Pipeline). Она расположена на Гавайях, на Северном побережье Оаху.
Также существуют волны, которые формирутся в устьях рек с каменным или песчаным дном.
Кроме этого, волны делятся еще на три вида: левые, правые и пиковые.
К примеру, левосторонний пойнт-брейк – волна, разбивающаяся в левую сторону. По аналогии, правые волны закрываются вправо. Как именно определить тип волны, если термины «право» и «лево» различаются для того, кто наблюдается с берега, и того, кто серфит по волне. Тут все просто: если серфер выходит на волну, и волна за ним начинает закрываться справа налево – это левая волна, поскольку серферу необходимо скользить в левую сторону, чтобы его не накрыло. По аналогии определяется и правая волна.
Пиковые волны, разбиваясь, формируют сразу две волны: и левую, и правую. Поэтому на них могут кататься сразу несколько серферов в разных направлениях, не мешая друг другу.
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